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Your 2005-2006 CR-V stops with a burnt smell, and only one rear wheel is too hot to touch. That is a caliper that will not let go. The rear left and right caliper set for the 2005-2006 CR-V (19-B2911 and 19-B2910) replaces both sides for $85.46.

Which number goes on which side

Every parts counter asks the same question first: left or right? Here is the answer for the 2005-2006 CR-V.

The 19-B2911 is the rear left caliper. The 19-B2910 is the rear right. Centric's own catalog splits the same pair as 141.40556 (left) and 141.40555 (right).

Those 19-B numbers are interchange numbers, not one brand's private code. They began on Cardone's remanufactured caliper line, and Duralast, CARQUEST, PHILTOP, and others now use them as a common cross-reference.

• Read the number cast or stamped on your old caliper. That number beats any catalog screen.
• Honda's own numbers encode the side too: 43018 is the right caliper and 43019 is the left.
• The driver sits on the left in the US, so the 19-B2911 lives behind the driver.

Only one side failed and the other was replaced recently? The rear right 19-B2910 single for the 2005-2006 CR-V is a zinc-coated kit at $46.39.

Why a rear caliper sticks

A disc caliper should release the moment you lift your foot. Three parts make that happen, and any one of them can fail.

• The piston seal. A square rubber ring twists the piston back a hair when pressure drops. Heat and corrosion kill that spring-back, so the pad keeps touching the rotor.
• The slide pins. The caliper body must float on two lubricated pins. Dry or rusted pins hold one pad against the rotor all the time.
• The brake hose. A hose that collapses inside traps pressure in the caliper even after the pedal releases.

Rear calipers suffer more than fronts on this car. The rears do a smaller share of the braking, so they see less action and collect more rust.

Five signs it is the caliper, not the pads

1. One wheel burns hot after an easy drive while the other three stay cool.
2. A burnt, chemical smell near one wheel after stop-and-go traffic.
3. The car pulls to one side while braking, then tracks straight when you release.
4. One pad sits far below its mirror pad on the other side.
5. Fuel economy drops and the car feels like it drags a brake everywhere.

One cheap check comes before any parts order. Chock the front wheels, lift the rear on stands, release the parking brake, and spin each wheel by hand. A wheel that stops almost at once has a caliper that is not releasing.

The brake hose belongs on the suspect list too. If a fresh caliper still drags, the hose is trapping pressure and needs to go as well.

Pair or single: the honest math

If one rear caliper seized, its twin has the same mileage and the same corrosion. Both routes are legal, so here is the real cost.

• Single right caliper: $46.39. Two singles: $92.78.
• Matched pair: $85.46, delivered as one set.
• Difference: $7.32, plus one job in the driveway instead of two.

A single is still the right call sometimes. If the opposite side was replaced recently, buy the one caliper and keep the difference.

What you should not do is add one new caliper to a pair that has dragged for months. The fresh side will grip harder than the glazed rotor and pads across from it.

Specifications at a glance

M10x1.25 means a 10 millimeter fitting with a 1.25 millimeter thread pitch. It is the banjo bolt that joins the flexible hose to the caliper. Measure yours before buying used calipers from a different Honda generation.

Five things to do while you are in there

1. Crack the bleeder screw and confirm fluid flows before you unbolt anything.
2. Use new copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting.
3. Clean the slide pins and pack them with silicone-based pin grease.
4. Press the piston back slowly with a C-clamp so the seal settles straight.
5. Bleed that corner with fresh DOT 3 fluid, then road test and watch the pedal travel.

Reuse a crushed copper washer and the fitting will weep. Brake fluid on a hot rotor makes a pedal that slowly sinks to the floor.

Pad choice matters as much as the caliper. Our CR-V and Acura brake interchange guide explains friction codes and pad pairing across the same Honda family.

The A-suffix trap: 19-B2910A is not your part

Catalogs also list 19-B2911A and 19-B2910A, with an A on the end. That letter marks a different generation, not different packaging.

• The A numbers map to the Honda 43019-STK-A10 (left) and 43018-STK-A10 (right) calipers.
• That family covers the 2007-2011 CR-V, the 2010-2011 Accord Crosstour, and the 2007-2012 Acura RDX.
• Your 2005-2006 CR-V takes the plain numbers: 19-B2911 left and 19-B2910 right.

Driving a 2010-2011 Accord Crosstour instead? The rear caliper pair for the 2010-2011 Accord Crosstour (19-B2911A and 19-B2910A) is $80.65, with cast iron pistons and the same M10x1.25 inlet.

Running a 2010-2012 Acura RDX? The six-piece rear caliper and pad set for the 2010-2012 RDX ships both calipers plus pads for $100.59.

Frequently asked questions

Everything else in the brake family

Calipers, pads, and rotors for Honda and Acura applications sit together in the brakes and brake parts collection, so you can finish the axle in one order.