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Lost both keys to your Honda CRF250L (2013-2020)? The dealer cannot cut you a new key without the original key code, and most owners never saved that tag. The fix is a full lock set swap — one afternoon, hand tools, done.

The four-piece lock set for the CRF250L and CRF250LA (2013-2020) covers the whole bike: ignition switch, locking fuel cap, seat lock and matched keys. Every lock opens with the same new key. There is no chip and nothing to program.

All keys lost? Three ways forward

Work down this list in order. Each step costs less than the one below it.

1. Hunt for the key code. It is a short code stamped on a lock — the recipe your key was cut from.
2. Cut a key to code. A dealer or locksmith can do it, if the code survived and they still cut keys.
3. Replace the whole lock set. New ignition, fuel cap and seat lock arrive with matched keys. This is the standard fix.

One key code runs every lock on the bike. That is why one lost key is cheap to solve and zero keys are not — the code usually sat on the metal tag you threw away in 2013.

Where the key code hides

Check these spots before you order anything:

• The small metal tag that came with the keys from the factory.
• Stamped on the ignition switch housing, sometimes under a thin plate.
• On the fuel cap or seat lock barrel, if those are still the original locks.

Found nothing? You can pull the ignition switch and hand it to a locksmith, who cuts a key straight from the cylinder. That still costs you a removal, a trip and a waiting day — which is why most riders simply swap the set.

Which set fits your bike

Pick by model and year, not by price. All five parts below are in stock now.

Switches, sensors and coils for the same bikes live in the ignition systems collection. If your dash cuts out as well as your key sticking, an electrical part is a likelier culprit than a lock.

Signs the locks are dying, keys still in hand

You do not need to lose a key to need this guide. Order a set when you notice any of these:

• The key sticks at OFF or needs a wiggle to reach ON.
• The dash flickers or dies over bumps — a worn switch loses contact for a split second.
• The key turns but now spins loosely past its stops.
• The seat latch or fuel cap stopped matching the ignition key.

Recovered the bike after a theft attempt? Punched switch barrels are the fastest way in, and a punched switch is rarely reusable. Fit the new set and the thief's screwdriver stops mattering.

The swap, step by step

Budget about an hour in the garage. Hand tools only.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before you touch any switch wiring.
2. Ignition switch: unbolt it from its bracket, unplug the connector, bolt the new switch in its place.
3. Fuel cap: unscrew the cap, remove the retaining screws underneath, lift the old lock out.
4. Seat lock: pull the seat, unbolt the old lock, swap it, refit the seat.
5. Reconnect the battery. Turn the new key through every position and confirm the dash lights come on.
6. Lock and unlock the fuel cap and seat twice each before you ride.

Nothing to program on a CRF250L (2013-2020) — the key is purely mechanical. The job ends when the bolts are tight.

One more layer while you are at it

A lock set stops someone from riding off. It does not stop a second person from lifting the bike onto a dolly. A fitted cover hides what is underneath and slows casual hands — the waterproof motorcycle cover guide explains which sizes and materials hold up outdoors.

Parking on a driveway all winter? Combine the three: new locks, a locked cover, and the tag code written in your phone. Each layer costs less than one replacement bike.

Frequently asked questions