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Complete Guide to Rear Left Brake Caliper for 2011-14 Chrysler 200 & 2007-10 Chrysler Sebring

Your rear left brake caliper has one job: press the pads against the rotor so the car slows and stops. When it sticks, leaks, or seizes, stopping distance grows and pads wear unevenly. This guide covers the replacement caliper for the 2011-2014 Chrysler 200 and the 2007-2010 Chrysler Sebring — what it fits, how it is built, how to install it, and how to spot a failing unit.

If you already know the part you need, go straight to the Rear Left Brake Caliper for 2011-14 Chrysler 200 & 2007-10 Chrysler Sebring product page. It ships as a complete caliper assembly, so there are no separate brackets, pistons, or seals to track down before the job.

Fitment: Does This Caliper Match Your Car?

Two details decide fitment: model years and casting number. Match both before you order. This unit covers:

• Chrysler 200, 2011-2014 — S and Touring trims with the 2.4L or 3.6L engine, as long as the rear left caliper on your car carries casting number 3502.
• Chrysler Sebring, 2007-2010 — 2.4L, 2.7L, or 3.5L engines. Cirrus models built to the same specifications are included.

The casting number is stamped into the caliper housing. If yours reads 3502, this replacement lines up with your bracket, your pads, and your brake line with no modifications.

Technical Specifications

Read the table as a checklist, not a promise. The casting number matters as much as the model year, because the fitment data points to the S and Touring trims of the 200 specifically. Thirty seconds with a flashlight beats a return shipment.

Build Quality: What You Are Getting

Two construction details separate this caliper from budget units:

• Positive Mold Technology. This casting method holds tight tolerances, so the caliper sits square on the bracket and applies the pads evenly across the rotor.
• Zinc plated finish. The plating fights corrosion from road salt, water, and brake dust — the usual causes of seized calipers and frozen slide pins.

The caliper is engineered as a direct OEM replacement, designed to match factory specifications exactly. Production follows SAE specifications and OEM requirements, in facilities that run quality management systems. In plain terms: it bolts in where the factory part bolted in and does the same job.

The part ships as a complete caliper assembly, ready for installation. That means no seal kit to source and no piston work on a bench — bolt it on, fit new pads, bleed the system, and drive.

Industry benchmarks put product description accuracy at 4.9/5, and customers report high satisfaction with fitment and performance. Specs first, marketing second — that is how this page is built.

Installation: Step by Step

A rear caliper swap is a realistic DIY job if you have a flat surface, an afternoon, and the right tools. Work in this order:

1. Safety first. Set the car on jack stands with wheel chocks. Never work under a car held up by a jack alone.
2. Get the right tools. A caliper piston compressor is the one specialty tool you cannot skip on a rear caliper.
3. Swap the caliper. Remove the old unit, fit new pads, and bolt the complete assembly in place.
4. Grease the slide pins. Use high-temperature grease on the caliper slide pins so the caliper floats freely as the pads wear.
5. Bleed the brakes. Bleed the system properly after installation to push air out of the lines before the first drive.

Tools and Fluids Checklist

• Jack stands and wheel chocks
• Lug wrench and socket set
• Brake line wrench
• Caliper piston compressor
• High-temperature grease for the slide pins
• DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, as specified for your vehicle

Cars with electronic parking brakes may also need specialized tools or software to retract the piston. Plan for that before the wheel comes off, not after.

Warning Signs: When the Caliper Is Done

Calipers rarely quit without warning. Watch for these symptoms during normal driving and at every tire rotation:

• Sticking caliper. Usually caused by dirty or corroded slide pins.
• Brake drag. The wheel resists rolling — often the result of improper piston retraction.
• Uneven pad wear. One pad worn faster than its neighbor points to a caliper alignment issue.
• Fluid leaks. Damaged seals or piston corrosion let brake fluid escape.
• Pulling to one side when braking, or visible piston corrosion with the wheel off.

Any one of these symptoms earns the caliper an inspection. Two or more mean replace it. Brakes are the one system where "it still works" is not good enough.

Pro Tips Before You Buy

These are the habits professional installers follow. They work in a driveway too:

1. Replace in pairs. Fitting both rear calipers at the same time keeps braking force balanced left to right.
2. Inspect related components. Check brake hoses, rotors, and pads while the wheel is already off.
3. Use quality brake fluid. DOT 3 or DOT 4, as specified — no substitutions.
4. Call a mechanic if unsure. A professional install costs far less than a collision.
5. Stay on schedule. Put a brake system inspection into your regular maintenance routine.

Doing the full job? Pair the caliper with fresh pads and, if needed, new rotors from the Brakes & Brake Parts collection — the whole swap in one order, with parts chosen to work together. Working on a different car? Our Complete Guide to Rear Left Brake Caliper 19B2109 for 1998-2004 Audi A4 & A6 Models follows the same format for the Audi platform.

Frequently Asked Questions